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Changing of the Guards

At the Parliament Buildings in Athens Greece

© Gwendolyn Copeman

A few of the pigeons who call Syntagma Square Home, Gwendolyn Copeman
While in Athens go see the colourful Evzones perform the Changing of the Guard Ceremony in front of the Greek Parliament Buildings in Syntagma Square

Changing Of The Guard

At the Greek Parliament Buildings in Athens

Syntagma Square

A must see while in Athens is the changing of the Guards. This ceremony takes place every day, in front of the Parliament Buildings in Syntagma Square.

If you arrive early to secure a prime spot, amuse yourself people watching or feed one of the countless pigeons that infest Syntagma Square. There are actually locals who can attract these birds onto their outstretched arms and head.

Military Duty

In Greece, every male devotes two years to military service. The Evzones, those chosen for Ceremonial duty, represent the best of the best. To be chosen, they must stand over six feet tall and have the ability to remain motionless for extended periods of time.

Two of these guards flank the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Dedicated on National Independence Day in 1932, the Tomb depicts a dying Greek warrior and bears an inscription from Pericles’s famous funeral speech.

While on duty the soldiers stand with back straight, head held high for hours. Although they can call their superior for help by banging the butt of their rifle sharply on the ground, even that motion is barely noticeable. As the sound cracks across the Square, a superior officer appears to straighten a tassel or scratch a nose. The Evzones are so good that barely an eyelash flickers when a small child posing for a photo reaches up for the guard’s hand.

Traditional Uniform

Since the Ceremony is for the public, the Evzones dress in traditional Greek uniforms worn by mountain fighters in the War of Independence. This consists of a kilt, a shirt with flowing sleeves, a form fitting vest, wool leggings with tasselled garters and hobnail shoes with pompoms on the toes. A fez sporting a long tassel on one side tops off the outfit.

The Guard Change

Incoming soldiers march down Vasillis Sophias street from their barracks at the edge of the National Gardens. If you happen to encounter them either coming or going, give them a wide berth. They have been known to give the occasional tourist a friendly slap on the backside.

The ceremony begins when fresh soldiers arrive at the Square and stand waiting to take their fellow soldiers place. The Guards who have until now remained motionless, begin a routine of stomping, swinging their limbs and marching in unison, possibly to get the blood circulating again.

When they finish, the new soldiers complete the same ritual before taking their places at either side of the Tomb. In 15 minutes, the exchange is complete. The tired soldiers march back to the barracks for a well-deserved rest.

Before you leave, pose for a picture with the guards. This is, after all, a moment to remember.


The copyright of the article Changing of the Guards in Greece Travel is owned by Gwendolyn Copeman. Permission to republish Changing of the Guards in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.





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