The third largest of the Greek islands (after Crete and Evia), Lesvos - commonly translated in English as Lesbos - lies in the far east of the Aegean, just miles from the west coast of Turkey. Its out of the way location, as well as the island’s large size and rugged terrain, mean it has yet to be overwhelmed by the en masse tourism and cruise ship industries like so many of the Greek islands.
Mytilini Port of Lesvos
The main port town of Lesvos is Mytilini (also spelled Mytilene), and the island itself is sometimes referred to as Mytilini, presumably taking a cue from the many prodigious ferry services that knit together all the islands. Mytilini is reachable by overnight ferry from the Athens port of Piraeus; frequent flights to Mytilini airport also serve those who prefer to spend more time at their destination than en route.
Mytilini itself boasts a stunning harbour and impressive ruins dating through the ages. Excursions to Turkey - the coastline clearly visible from the port, and less than an hour away by ferry - provide popular side trips, whether for an afternoon or more extensive touring.
But for a taste of fierce, unspoiled Aegean beauty and the sense of paradise regained, the best excursion on Lesvos is simple: go west.
Sappho Birthplace Eressos
Perhaps best known as the birthplace of Ancient Greek poet Sappho, whose female cult followers account for the provenance of the word lesbian, the areas of Eressos and Skala Eressou on Lesvos’ remote west coast have for some time enjoyed a fairly steady, laid back stream of gay women travelers.
With its crystalline waters, brilliant sunshine and striking cliff-top backdrop, Skala Eressou (Eressos Beach) has all the hallmarks of an island paradise, yet retains a distinctive old-world village charm that is enhanced by a friendly, tight-knit community. The central seaside boardwalk is dotted with family-run tavernas serving almost startlingly fresh seafood; local specialty octopus is whisked directly from the sea and hung on railings in front of diners prior to gracing their plates. Inquisitive foodies can get a jump on their lunch selections by strolling along the beach to the fishermen’s boats as they come in and pour forth their bounty every morning.
Nearly two hours from Mytilini by car or bus over sometimes hair-raising mountain passes, it is little wonder Skala Eressou is particularly popular for longer-stay vacations. Self-catering options abound, as do inexpensive basic lodgings like the women-only Mascot Hotel. Newer on the scene is the more family-oriented all-inclusive resort Neilson’s Aeolian Village, slightly removed from the action at the far end of Skala Eressou.
But even with this recent encroachment from the larger-scale tourist industry, the west coast of Lesvos still offers an abundance of hidden coves, deserted stretches of beach and unspoiled rustic village life to appeal to the independent traveller and harken back irresistibly to the timeless romantic charm so many of the more crowded Aegean tourist spots have squandered.
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