Ithaka Greek Island Home of Odysseus
The Greek Ionian Island of Ithaka Beaches and Resorts Guide
Aug 29, 2009
Ithaka is the Greek island home of Homer's legendary hero Odysseus. On one hand, you can see why he wanted to get out of there - the island is essentially a pair of barren, scrub-shrouded mountains plunging into an azure sea. With just two settlements of any size - Frikes in the north and Vathy in the south - there's not much to do, frankly speaking. Sounds perfect, then, for a stress-busting break!
The upside of Ithaka's uncompromising landscape is that it forms a natural barrier to tourism development, so there is certainly nothing to attract the package hordes. And the merciful absence of all-day English breakfasts and rowdy bars screening premiership football round the clock is what keeps Ithaka a simple, unspoilt island that pulls in a well-heeled, upmarket clientele.
Strike up a conversation with any of the local people who all seem to speak excellent English, and you'll see that they are spiritual descendants of Odysseus. After living overseas in Australia, Canada, the US or South Africa, Ithaka's indefinable spell drew them home again.
The Greek Ionian Island of Ithaca Best Resorts and Beaches
Vathy is the main port of Ithaka, a mellow place whose quayside tavernas sprawl around a hidden bay. A couple of small beaches – Loutsa and Dexia - are in walkable distance, as is the glorious beach of Sarakiniko bay. Hiking around is all very well, but the more sensible option is to hire a scooter or car to explore the island, heading north towards Frikes on the island’s only surfaced road.
Frikes is a snoozy little fishing port that scrambles into a brief flurry of action when the Lefkas ferry docks before dozing off again. It’s a deliciously chilled base for kicking back with a handful of tavernas right by the water for feasting on fish and seafood. The toy-like boats that land the day's catch see-saw at the edge of the pebble beach, with the mountains of the mainland fencing in the horizon.
Frikes is not quite the end of the road - beyond here, the road snakes round to Kioni skirting a chain of tempting little beaches. Kioni itself is a photogenic harbour frequented by the yachtie crew who drop in for lunch.
The Greek Ionian Island of Ithaka Best Sights Around the Island
As Ithaka is the legendary home of Homer’s hero Odysseus the island is littered with sites linked tenuously with the epic tale. To be honest, there’s not a lot to see unless you grew up steeped in the classics and feel a deep desire to do the Odysseus trail.
The sites themselves are distinctly underwhelming - a few stones submerged in the scrub here and here, a dribble of water coming out of the ground at the Arethousa Spring – but it can be fun getting lost finding them and views are often superb.
Far more rewarding is the dizzy scenic route between Vathy and Frikes. As you climb over Mt Niritos, Ithaka’s waspish waist cinches in to just 500m wide, giving stunning views across the narrow strait to the mountains of Kefalonia on one side, with Lefkas and its satellites on the other. Along the way are tiny secluded beaches perfect for a dip.
Getting to Ithaka from the UK
One factor that helps keep Ithaca unspoilt is its lack of an airport. You can only get there by ferry from Kefalonia or Lefkas. UK charter airlines such as Thomson, Thomas Cook and MyTravel fly direct to Kefalonia and Lefkas (Preveza). Olympic Airways and Aegean Airlines fly from Athens to Kefalonia and Lefkas (Preveza).
Greek ferry companies change their timetables from one year to the next, so an up-to-date version of the Thomas Cook guide to Greek Island Hopping should come in handy
Ferries to Ithaka leave from Sami on Kefalonia (about 1hr crossing) and from Nidri on Lefkas (about 2hrs)
