Lefkas – a Taste of Unspoilt Greece
The Greek Ionian Island of Lefkas Beaches and Resorts Guide
Oct 5, 2009
In the unspoilt hinterland villages of Lefkas, walnut-featured old timers lead donkeys laden with bundles of vine leaves past black-shrouded old ladies who survey the world from their doorways. Yes, even in the 21st century it is still possible to find pockets of Greece that have not been swamped by mass tourism.
The Greek Ionian Island of Lefkas – Best Bases and Beaches
Agios Nikitas is a place it's hard not to fall in love with. There's just a solitary traffic-free street of pretty blue and white houses, bars, tavernas and shops sliding down to a pocket-sized patch of sandy beach. Within walking distance is the glorious sweep of Pefkoulia beach, or boats run the short trip to the strand at Milos. A few kilometres drive south are two more stunning beaches at Kathisma and Kalamitsi.
On the south coast, Vassiliki has a knockout view to Kefalonia and Ithaca across a bay freckled with day-glo windsurfer sails. The lively little port is inviting with a quayside strip of bars and tavernas, but the pebbly beach is nothing to shout about.
Nidri on Lefkas' east coast is the main package resort and might suit some people. Sadly, its lovely setting opposite the islets of Skorpios, Sparti and Madouri is ruined by thoughtless development, mad traffic pollution and a waterside strip suffering from Full English, burger and pizza syndrome. On the plus side, it’s a lively place with passable strips of beach.
The Greek Ionian Island of Lefkas – Best Island Sights
Lefkada Town has unique anti-quake buildings built of stone at ground floor level, beneath upper storeys of corrugated metal painted in ice cream colours reminiscent of an Aussie outback town. The pedestrianised high street leaves the causeway connecting Lefkas to the mainland and runs through Ayios Spiridonas square, where everyone hangs out to see and be seen. Among a maze of tiny alleys are squat 18th-century churches that survived the tremors.
The dramatic west coast drive delivers scenery as good as anywhere in Greece: mountain villages such as Dragano and Athani cling to hillsides plunging to an impossibly blue sea. Towards the south-western finger of Cape Lefkatas, Porto Katsiki is a delicious turquoise cove at the foot of soaring white cliffs
Along the way, a lunch stop with the yachtie set at one of the inviting waterfront fish tavernas in Sivota Bay is a good way to break up the day.
Ferries leave from Nidri to Meganissi for a day of pure escapism. On the way the boats pass the Onassis family’s private Skorpios island where Aristotle and Jackie Kennedy were married.
Sleepy Meganissi is as low-key as it gets. Drop-off stops are at Spillia and Vathy and there's nothing to do but flop out in secluded coves or walk through wild pine forests. The island works a kind of magic and smitten daytrippers often come back for a longer stay.
Getting to Lefkas from the UKLefkas has no airport - the nearest is at Preveza about 25km away on the mainland. UK charter airlines operate direct flights to Preveza between April and October – check timings and prices with Thomson, Thomas Cook, MyTravel and Monarch. Scheduled airlines fly into Athens from where Olympic Air connects to Preveza.
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