Samos – Anthony and Cleopatra's wedding island
The Greek Island of Samos Beaches and Resorts Guide
Oct 13, 2009
The divine couple Zeus and Hera, then Anthony and Cleopatra gave Samos the thumbs-up for their nuptials - as endorsements go, that sure beats Tripadvisor! Nowadays its modest yet lively resorts hit the spot with couples and families, although the gritty, pebbly beaches are no great shakes. Samos' best beaches are in the west of the island, a good drive away from the main resorts.
Samos lost great swathes of its lush scenery to forest fires that swept the island with sad regularity in the 90s and noughties, but the island remains one of the most beautiful of the Northeast Aegean chain running along the Turkish coast. Good roads make touring with a hired car a breeze - there are a couple of ancient sites worth hunting down, as well as the vineyards that produce the perfumed muscat wine of Samos.
Greek Aegean Island of Samos Best Beach Resorts and Bases
The ruins of ancient Samos poke through here and there in the bustling streetsof Pythagorion, Samos' most happening resort. Smart bars and restaurants lining the harbour are where it all goes down. In the evening, the bars wind up the decibels and poseurs begin the Riviera-style parade past glitzy cruisers and brightly-painted tiddlers of the local fishing fleet.
The nearest beach - a pebble and sand strip at Potokaki - lies a 10-minute walk away, past the ruins of Roman baths and the ancient harbour. The only fly in the ointment is the nearby airport which shatters the peace rather alarmingly from time to time.
Kokkari has the broadest appeal of Samos’ resorts. The original fishing village is a traffic-free tangle of alleyways around the harbour, where fishing boats see-saw outside a strip of waterside bars and restaurants. The modern development running along half a kilometre of pebbly beach stretching away from the old harbour is all tastefully done. Greek families add to the lively evening vibe, chatting outside their shops and houses and parading in the evening vólta.
The island’s ‘capital’ Samos Town is not a resort as such, but many people stay there for the lively buzz of the trendy cafe and restaurant strip coiling along the hectic waterfront. Away from the action in the quiet cobbled shopping streets is the excellent Archaeological Museum, which houses an army of sculpture from ancient Heraion, including a beguiling 5m statue of a Kouros whose face has the mystical serenity of a buddha.
The charming old quarter of Ano Vathy tumbles down the hillside, a world apart from the busy ferry port below. It’s a delight to wander the narrow streets where local men while away a few hours of indolence in spit-and-sawdust ouzeris.
Die-hard beach-bums need to head for Gaggou, 1.5km away, or get hold of transportation (buses run in season) to reach Psili Ammos, a sandy sheltered cove with tavernas. The Turkish hills across the narrow strait look close enough to swim to, but it's not a good idea.
Kambos(aka Votsalakia) is a sprawling strip of low-key beachside tavernas and rooms-to-rent that just about adds up to a resort. There's nothing to do but chill on the shingly sand all day and eat grilled calamari in quiet tavernas in the evening. A few km west lies Psili Ammos a pine-fringed beach that is invaded by Greek families at weekends.
Best sights Around the Island
Samos is a comfortable size for touring, breaking the days with pitstops at hill villages, ancient sites, or roadside stalls selling bunches of dried herbs, mounds of cherries and apricots and jars of pine-scented honey.
In the north are the best landscapes on Samos, through which snaky roads coil past walnut groves and vineyards. Leafy hill villages like Vourliotes and Manolates make the perfect venues for lazy lunch with glorious vistas and local wine straight from the barrel.
Two ancient sites lie in the south. In its heyday, the Sanctuary of Hera (Heraion) was 4 times the size of the Parthenon. All that remains to hint at its glory are ruined foundations and a lone precarious column. Close by is the Eupalinus Tunnel is a 6th-century aqueduct burrowed with astounding precision - impressive, but not a good place for claustrophobic visitors.
Getting to Samos from the UK
Samos is mainstream enough to be on the package holiday map, so the major operators such as Thomson, Thomas Cook et al operate direct package flights in summer season. Otherwise, scheduled flights go to Athens to connect with Samos.
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